FURTHER WINDING TEST

         The winding may be tested further as follows . A two in wide length of adhesive tape such as is used by electricians for insulation ( or gummed paper or transparent cellulose adhesive tape ) is cut five ins . long. It is pressed longitudinally along the rod and pressed round the circumference to cover the winding completely. a sharp knife is then used to cut the winding along the length of the rod where the two edges of the tape meet .It is then a simple matter to strip the winding off from the rod as a sheet of parallel threads measuring two ins. by five ins.The sheet is placed face downwards upon a flat surface and ironed with a warm iron to complete firm adhesion to the tape .
         This pad or sheet is sufficiently stable to withstand wet treatments such as scouring stripping of sye re dyeing or testing with B D H Universal Indicator for variations in alkalinity or acidity or staining with ferro cyanide for iron content or for examination by ultra violet light for mineral oil stains . It is useful to employ this method in conjunction with the staining methods given in my other post .
This device may also be used to follow variations in length due to processing. A length of yarn is wrapped round the long axis the yarn is unwrapped and treated (e.g. by mercerisation ) dried and rewound under the same tension as originally used . Shrinkage will be indicated be the marked places forming a spiral on the rod and irregular shrinkage will show as irregularities in the spiral.
In practical works laboratory technique the use of the inspection board and inspection rod coupled with systematic examination of variations in the consecutive length of yarn obtained in the way described will solve a large percentage of the problems encountered.

LIPS AND EYES

 lips:
For the bride’s lips, I like to use a colour
that will not clash with the bride’s eyes and dress and
 of course her Bouquet…Bearing in mind you have already
 primed your lips when you applied your foundation and
powder by putting a suitable balm or moisturiser on
them after you have done your base. By the time you
are ready for lipstick to be applied, your lips will
be in perfect condition…-Always leave this to the very last.
I use a “Nude” lip pencil over the entire lip before applying
the lip colour as it gives extra staying power, apply
lip-colour then blot with a tissue and reapply lipstick with a
touch of gloss or a more shimmering colour to enhance the shadow of
your bottom lip and a slight touch over the top lip.



Eye
For your eyes, can not go wrong with matt make up with slight shimmering
shadow . I usually use a combination or colours to compliment the brides out fit.
A soft black eyeliner .(no browns ) use black mascara for your dedding day,
even if you are very fair and usually go for brown.. it will show up better in your
photographs, smudged finshed to the base of your lashes on your upper lid
will make your eyeslashes appear thicker and , in conjunction with a little grey or
dark brown eye  shadow applied with a think brush at the base of your lower
lashes,,, will suntyl define your eyes perfect for the photos .    

REGENERATED CELLULOSE RAYONS

       The group includes viscose rayon cup rate rayon resin modified viscose types and magnified acetate rayon's  i e products which are substantially poly b glucose. They may be regarded chemically as swollen cellulose and their general reactions are similar to those of mercerised cotton though they are considerably more degraded. their shorter chain length causes them to have a considerably higher fluidity a greater susceptibility to chemical attack and a considerably greater swelling in water ( which results in a much greater extensibility when wet) than mercerised cotton . According to staudinger the mean chain length of cotton corresponds to 2,000 glucose units whereas the mean chain length of viscose probably contains not more than 300 to 450 units.
      Microscopically the main types of these rayon are fairly easily distinguished from each other . In addition to the normal forms there are products which have been de lustred by incorporation of pigments (titanium dioxide usually ) in the opining dope or by surface application of a pigment such as barium sulphate or by finely dispersed resins such as dimethyl urea or by substantive quaternary containing numerous air bubbles and one form which has a central canal . For examination of these types option solution of the main fibre by mounting in a medium of suitable ref active index is of great value.

STUBBORN STAINS

            To remove oil stains from woollen clothes apply a little curd over the area and wash it after some time . The stains will vanish.
To remove stains from melamine crockery , apply a little vinegar on them and all the stains will wash away easily.
 Add the juice of one orange to a bowl full of strawberries for enhanced flavour 

Egg shell uses:
         Put egg shells to good use by powdering them in a mixer . This will clean the mixer blades and you con also use the powder for scrubbing vessels.

Bio-Amla hair oil :

        bio amla hair oil has been taking care of all types of hair to make them strong , long and elegant for the last four decades . It's right combination of herbs keeps your hair full of life rich and shiny .That 's why majority of women in Pakistan prefers bio amla hair oil over other and passes it on to the next generation because of it 's unmatched benefits.



Hair tips :


               Your hair your looks and your personality.Hair style is a deferent age groups.when is pollution ours life of part.if you Care of hair ,you likes your skin and hair.hair Care to keep and healthy .The weather of winter in hair of mostly few opened.....and hair for good shampoo used it.Hair Care involves keeping and your Hair scalp clean.Hair of all problems with eat a good food,because this very effective in your hairs problems  :

Skin Tips:

            When the indoor the a morning in the sun Kerri ...use the some sunscreen lotion with a minimum thirteen minuet 30.
And Please more drinking of water ...because skin Care is a very impotent you.
Give up in the morning  more not smoking a day  .
Your skin in your life very impotent... because your skin increase good personality.
Used the some vitamin C tablas and food his finished the skin problems :

OXIDATION HISTORY

A slow oxidation over a long period will produce the same alterations as a rapid oxidation over a short period. The first attack by oxygen upon an oil results in peroxide formation peroxides then decompose into either free fatty acid petrol insoluble acids or the original unsaturated compound or aldehyde. Analysis for any of the decomposition products determines the amount of oxidation which has taken place but this knowledge is far less important than knowledge of the speed at which oxidation is liable to take place.
    Oxidation acids are not removed by most commercial refining processes and their amount is a safe indication of the extent of past oxidation but not of its cause nor of the likelihood of future oxidation .
    Considerable amounts of oxy-acids indicate the existence in time past of a considerable swing of the catalyst anti oxidant balance in favour of oxidation . If the reasons for the presence of oxy acids in an oil have been dealt with the presence of less than 2 % in a vegetable oil is not objectionable.
   The peroxide content of an oil has repeatedly been proposed as a criterion of suitability but it gives no indication whatever of future oxidation tendencies a given value may be due to slow formation over a long period in which case it is harmless or to a quick formation over a short period in which case it is a pointer to danger. 

PIMPLES

  Rub the scrapings of bitter gourd all over your face and leave for a few minutes before washing off . Not only will you have glowing skin but black heads and pimples too will be reduced considerably.

 Dried and chafed skin remedy
        If your skin has dried and developed cracks apply mustard oil it every night before going to bed . In no time you will have a baby soft .
 Peeling garlic can be made easy by soaking the flakes in water over night .

Packing house
       When you plan to stay away from home for a long a time scatter neem leaves in all the rooms and cupboards . Your house will not smell of dust. when you return it will also be free of creepy insects .

Lentil care
       Apply a little Castor oil to deal before storing in containers . this will prevent fungal growth and deeps it fresh. However care should be taken to thoroughly wash the deal before use .

Relief from heat
     For an instant relief press a little dough on scalded finger or any other area affected be heat.


EYES TIPS: 
                 eyes of beauty interesting and most makes beauty full.
Mostly woman's very expensive makeup she is buyer .
woman's eyes of related is many problems.
for example not completely Cline eyes after makeup.
eyes of protect used it vita men A and vita men B and C very .
and otherwise milk, better, fish,eggs,and carrot, tomato, mangoes eyes for also is compulsory .
Compulsory of eyes is makeup before  complete the Cline your eyes.and used the nice Kareem. because  in your complete body eyes very impotent and is soft . please be care your eyes.

THE ANALYSIS OF FINISHES

       It will be realized from the preceding pages that the finish on a fabric may contain a wide range of substances most of which are of such a character that they do not lend themselves easily to exact identification . Commercial finishes usually have a basis or carrier of starch gum to resin which confers more or less stiffness and acts as a binder for other ingredients . Its stiffness and handle depend on the actual basis present the percentage applied and the method of application depend on the viscosity of the paste or rather f the weight of the thickener per gallon necessary to give a paste of the usual consistency required for practical application . The thickening material may have been modified by chemical treatment which produces degradation products such as Dexedrine or glucose . Hygroscopic agents such as glycerine sodium lactate or Manning may be added . For certain purposes sugar itself is used . Soaps fats waxes or oils may be present for some cloths filling compounds such as chalk talc or other weightings may be present . Antiseptics and antimissile compounds or in recent years anti vermin compounds may be used whilst moth proofing agents are common.
    It is therefore at the present time very difficult to work out a general scheme of analysis which will systematically lead to the orderly detection of the components. Indeed the main element in any such scheme must be experience in the analysis if sizes and thickening's.
Probably the greater the experience the less is any rigid scheme adopted .

ANALYSIS OF COLOR CURVE

        The color curve now requires analysis . A glance at the curve will show that its peak point is in the orange section of the spectrum, which is to be expected because of the color of the pattern . The position of the curve as a whole indicates to what degree a color is light or dark . If the color is light that is to say is a approaching a white then the curve will be high up on the graph . If on the other will be flatter and low down on the curve.
      The average position of the curve is termed the mean tone and is obtained by adding together the percentage of light transmitted through each of fig .ninety two will transmit the following percentages of light through the six filters
red 63 % ------Orange  64%------Yellow 49%--------Green 17%--------Blue 7%--------Violet 9%
        The mean tone will then equal 35 % and it is indicated by drawing a straight line on the graph.
The purity of a color is indicated by the percentage transmission of the dominant color compared with the percentage transmitted by the complementary to this color . For example a bright reddish orange will contain very little of its complementary color blue it will have great purity  The more blue there is presnt the more blue will be reflected from the pattern and the dirtier and flatter will the scarlet color be , This would be indicated on the graph be the curve being higher in the blue region . the purity of the orange represented in fig 92 is 64 transmission of the dominant orange minus 7 transmission of the complementary blue equals 57 .
      In the above description the amounts transmitted through the various filters are returned as percentages.

THE COLOR COUNCIL DICTIONARY

          The dictionary was produced originally with the object of defining the exact shades indicated be such common expressions as sky blue , flesh color coral and so on . These terms had come to have different meanings for different people with consequent loss and confusion when these divergences impinged upon commerce. For example flesh color may range from a pale salmon in some minds to a dark pink in others Mr. R..F Wilson the manager of the color council in the preparation of the dictionary asked a large number of representative people to send patterns which they considered to answer to the various names put forward . The variety of shades which was proved to be current under any single color name was astonishing. It is however now possible to select a soler from the color dictionary and to cable its name to a firm in say Australia with the assurance that the firm will be able to know exactly what kind of color is meant . It is also of course possible by means of the dictionary to define the shade of any dyed pattern as being for instance rather darker than the salmon shade.

         The dictionary of course despite its general utility provides only a rough and ready method and has serious disadvantages . The most important of these lies in the fact that the color of any substance depends upon two factors A the absorption spectrum of the color and B the composition of the light shining on the pattern . It is well known that two patterns may be dyed to a perfect match in north day light but may yet be very different in color when seen in artificial light . In the same way whenever a color which has been obtained be using certain specified dye stuffs is matched by means of other dye stuffs the absorption spectrum of the resultant match will be different from that of the standard. Thus the color council pattern dyed on silk will match the same color produced in for example pottery leather rubber wool etc in one specific light only and in and other light it will probably appear a different hue . There is also the difficulty that a color produced on a lustrous material such as silk can never be matched exactly in a dull material such as unglazed pottery on in a very broken surface such as raised woolen cloth.
         When more exact nomenclature is required without the use of a scientific instrument the chief alternatives at the present time are the Ostwald and the mun sell color systems.

TEXTILE APPLICATIONS

       At the present time all the well known resins of the colorless type are employed in textile work for one purpose or another . The following brief survey is merely illustrative of the main type which the analyst may expect to fine .
      Many of the thermoplastic type are made into fibers e.g the poly-amides polyvinyl chloride polyisobutylene
chloride alkyd and styrene. There are three of four protein formaldehyde fibers . Some fibers especially cotton and rayon are reacted with synthetic resin components such as aldehyde or ketone to produce new cross bonded products exhibiting durable stiff furnishes which must be regarded as belonging to the synthetic resin group . The treatment of cellulose with acetone and of wool with formaldehyde must be included in this group.
        Starch has been condensed with formaldehyde in presence of an acid catalyst to produce resistant finishes. Cellulose ethers alkyl celluloses including methyl ethyl and benzyl cellulose have useful applications methyl cellulose has the peculiar and valuable property of being insoluble in hot water but soluble cold . The hydroxy alkyl celluloses such as glycol cellulose form mucilages with two N caustic soda from which they can be applied to textiles treatment with dilute acid precipitates the resin on to the fiber in a form fast to mild washing . carboxylic cellulose forms a water soluble sodium salt which on drying on the fiber gives a flexible film type finish.

ELECTRICAL INSULATION

ELECTRICAL : INSULATION 
                 The electrical conductivity of bone dry textile fibers is extremely small . The conductivity shown under conditions of normal regain must be considered due to the solution of water soluble electrolytes in the regain moisture to form am more or less continuous conducting film over the internal and external surfaces of the fibers .

SURFACE LEAKAGE :
                 The conductance is largely due to the facility with which an electric current can pass through the system by leakage from the surface of one fiber to another, This surface leakage depends on the following factors:
                The physical structure of the yarn or fabric, and especially the amount of twist in the yarn the closeness of the weave of a fabric the tightness with which the yarn or fabric is wound upon the metal to be insulated and the pressure under which it is placed.
                The springiness and surface structure of the fibers of smooth surface low resilience or high plasticity will tend to give the largest area of surface contact of fibers .
                The moisture content of the fiber at the temperature of operation of the electrical apparatus . The higher the moisture content the thicker the surface film of moisture and the more likely it is to be substantially continuous:
              The moisture content will normally be due in the main to the natural regain of the fiber but may be increased by the presence of hygroscopic salts . In apparatus designed to run at high temperatures such as one hundred to 115 deg .c . the eventual moisture content of fiber insulators will be small as most of the natural regain will be driven off under conditions of use .The eventual current leakage will therefore be only a fraction of the initial leakage the first effect of heating however will be to drive moisture to the surface of the fibers which will result temporarily in a great increase in leakage. The higher the initial regain of the fibers the more pronounced this effect will be and in the interior of electrical plant it may take some time for moisture to dry out.
             The content of water soluble electrolytes present as impurities in the fiber these may be naturally occurring or may be residues from some chemical processing.
             In recent years various processes have been devised for producing washed textile fibers. These consist in washing with weak acids to remove water and acid soluble electrolytes the washing being then followed with water washes until the PH of the fiber reaches the is electric point for the fiber at which adsorption of electrolytes ( including acids ) is at a minimum. These processes aim at reducing the ash content to a minimum and at leaving the fiber at its is o electric point . It has been found possible to wash cotton to give better insulation than natural silk . It is however not the total ash content but the water soluble electrolytes which are important the author produced a true silk fiber of very high insulation value yielding 11.4% of ash none of which however was water soluble .
             The hydrophilic and or salt forming groupings in the molecular structure of the fiber . for example the etherized and hydroxy or car boxy grouping in cotton are hydrophilic and the cooh groups are salt forming cotton is therefore intrinsically less suitable as an insulator than Cotopa ( Acetylated cotton ) or more especially than polyvinyl chloride rayon which contains no hydrophilic or salt forming groups and in consequence has an insignificant regain and water soluble electrolyte content.

ULTRA VIOLET LIGHT

           The fluorescence is often useful but the possible presence of small quantities of strongly fluorescing non resin bodies must be considered. violet blue phenol formaldehyde but audience and copolymers polystyrene polyvinyl Carbondale counterman blue polyvinyl acetate polyvinyl formal urea formaldehyde melamine formaldehyde nylon polyatomic acid polyatomic methyl ester chlorinated rubber cellulose acetate alkyd polyvinyl chloride yellow polycrystalline cellulose nitrate polyvinyl methyl ether cyclohexanol condensates .White .cellulose polyvinyl alcohol casein.

LIEBERMAN  TORCH  TEST :
           Put a few drops of acetic anhydride on the cloth add one drop of cone . sulphuric acid and oner the  Color over a few minutes. ( see also p 456 ) yellow phenol formaldehyde changes to reddish brown videophone chloride. brown alkyd polyvinyl acetate counterman aldehyde condensates c opal .green polyvinyl chloride acetate blue polyvinyl chloride polyvinyl acetate red cyclohexanol violet natural resin ( diabetic acid ) None nylon. wine malice anhydride resins.

PHENYLALANINE THIAMINE TEST :
         The fabric is steeped for one hour in a saturated aqueous solution of the reagent then for fifteen minutes in twenty vol hydrogen peroxide mauve brown indicates cellulose fibers and urea formaldehyde resins yellow indicate thermoplastic resins.

KIT ON BLUE V TEST
         A  little fabric is steeped for several hours in a cold solution of piton blue V at PH 3.1 blue indicates lignite celluloses urea formaldehyde resins and polyatomic no Co lour indicates cellulose fibers and phenol formaldehyde type . 

CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF WATER:

             An industrial laboratory should not in general attempt to analyse water for drinking purposes. Th egardness having been determined together with other data necessary for steam raising purposes the only other data required are suspended matter humic matter iron dissolved oxygen and in rare cases sulphuretted hydrogen.

            Suspended matter.Filter I Liter though tared filter papers dry at mon more than one hundred and five deg .C. and weigh .In natural waters the residue may contain fine sand or earthy matter. In softened waters there may be suspended calcium and magnesium salts which sometimes continue to percipitate for some hours after softening. In zeolite especially from certain friable types .  There may also be iron rust from water pipes and suspended humic matter from moorland waters .  Occasionally filamentous algae are present. Suspended matter is very objectionable in all syeing processes where the dyeing liquor is circulated through packages of fibrous material whether hank cake top or beam.  Humic acid is a nuisance in neutral dyeing as it is absorbed by animal fibres almost like a neutral dyeing buff coloured dye stuff. In one case when water contained much humic matter pale blues could be obtained only by dyeing some material intended for dark shades in the water to be used for the blue shade to remove the hmic matter.  Iron is responsible for the flattening of shades with iron sensitive dye stuffs.

Iron .
         The I Liter of wather from determination of suspended matter is evaporated to dryness. Add dilute hydrochloric acid evaporate to dryness ignite moisten with conc.  HCI stand fifteen minutes add water boil filter through iron free paper and determine by any the usual colorimetric methods.  The residue from filtration is ignited and treated in the above manner.

Microscopical Ecamination :
         Some information usually more interesting than useful can be given in Wallis Analytical Microscopy or the standard work by thorpe and others may be consulted.
FILAMENT FIBRES:
         IN This pure silk is grouped with all those artificial fibres which have as a common property a single filament formation which is structureless in comparison with the natural fibres.
TURE SILK :
           
      This is a protein fibre and may be regarded chemically as a simplification of the wool protein ,the fundamental protein is a long chain molecule in which the unit NH CH CO is repeated many times. The protein is based principally on glycine and alanine residues with some tyrosine but cystine is absent and there are no cross linkages of sulphur as in wool all the cross links are salt linkages.
      Structurlly sill is uniqe amongst natural fibres in that it dose not deem to have any surface dkin or cuticle unless indeed dilk gum itself is regarded as a kind of cuticle layer.  Silk is perhaps the least complicated both chemically and physically of the natural fibres.
     It is produced by the larva of the bombyx mori moth which extrudes the filament from twin spinnerets when making its cocoon .  The filament proper consisting of the protein fibre is coated with an alkali soluble variant of fibroin termed serecin .  In the undegummed state silk appears as twin filaments which are more or less stuck together by serecin .
      In the process of reeling the silk filament from the cocoon the outer and inner layers are discarded as waste.  These layers are characterised by irregularity in diameter and especially by irregularity in the thickness of the serecin layer.  Waste silk is also provided by pierced double or feeble cocoons and by damaged cocoons.  There are several recognised qualities of silk waste. In the working up of waste the silk is degummed and carded which tears it p into short lengths of a staple corresponding roughly with the range of wool staples the carded silk is then combed on principles not dissimilar to those used in wool combing various staple lengths or drafts being produced which are spun into yarns of a fineness corresponding to the draft. such yarns are generally known as schappe and are manufactured into pile fabrics or spun silk goods. They have their analogy in viscose staple fibre . Schappe silk is often only partly boiled off.

EFFLUENTS :

The detailed treatment of effluents is outside the scope of this book but it may be said that very few effluents from texitle works are fit to be turned into a river shilst certain types such as alkaline wool scouring liquors will not be accepted by many sewage works without prior treatment. In the normal treatment of sewage it is necessary to have a fairly neutral liquid . It is an advantage for a textile laboratory to have some understanding of the prooblem of the sewage chemist . A general reviw written from the textile laboratory point of view is given in garner industrial microscopy . The textile laboratory may be concerned in oxidising sulphide effluents or arranging that mutually reacting effluents sulphide and acid effluents do not enter the same drain or in previnting the unpleasant smell from some biological retting a drip feed of potassium permanganate into the drain . The most important problem likely to be encountered is in connection with wool sxouring effluents. Here the works is faced either with payment of a certain sum to the local corporation for the acid treatment of the effluent or with the acid treatment of the effluent in the works.

METHODS OF COLOR MEASUREMENT

COLOR MEASUREMENT:

                          It is often desirable to record the exact color of dyed material or yarn for future reference or for transmission by cable radio or letter to some distant person or for comparison with some other specimen of dyed goods, or for the purpose of making a quantitative estimation of the change in shade brought about by exposure to light or by testing for fastness to washing which cannot be made by mere visual observation.

         Of the recording methods in use some are of direct practical interest to dyers whilst other are more suited for the scientific laboratory.Of the former type are the British color council 's dictionary of standards the Ostwald color chart the love bond   Tintometer and the Toussaint colorimeter . Belonging to the second group are the Guild trichromatic colorimeter the nutting colorimeter and the Donaldson .

         All these instruments have their special uses in the recording and interpretation of color and of color changes . There is no universal methods of color measurement which can by applied to any problem and the methods to be used for the measurement of color in any particular  instance must be decided by practical considerations.

TESTS FOR MIXTURES

                                            MIXTURES TESTS

       Of further tests the tirst should be to determine if the dye stuff is a mixture .A large number of commercial dye stuffs are mixtures but a competent dye house will find few of them worth buying ; the value test previously given will eliminate most of them .It is a good general rule never to buy a mixture  though dye manufacturer has after much experiment found a blend of two or which exhausts on tone in jigger or warp dyeing and such blends if tinctorially of good value are useful.In most cases however a skilled dyer will produce results as good as those given by the mixture and more cheaply with individual dye stuffs whose properties he knows precisely and which are normally kept in the dye stores.

       Dye stuff mixtures are usually prepared by blending powders and only very occasionally by salting out a mixed solution .Therefore if a small amount is picked up on the end of a spatula and blown on to a piece of wet filter paper or in some cases on to cons . Sulphuic acid in a watch glass the individual specks become separated in space and dissolved separately according to their color . It is often possible to make a rough estimate of the number of dye stuffs their proportions and colors . A small percentage of one color additional to the main dye stuff may be permitted as a legitimate addition for shade standardization whilst many dye stuffs connote be made without the presence of homologues etc.

        The average size of the molecular aggregates in a dye stuff solution varies very considerably from one dye stuff to another and as the aggregate size determines the speed at which the dye stuff passes through the pores of filter paper it is useful to put a drop of solution on to some thick filter paper and observe the way the frop spreads. A mixture usually shows rings of color the more soluble and less aggregated dye stuff travelling farther and more rapidly than the rest.

        Sharper separation may sometimes be obtained by putting the drop adjacent to a previously applied drop of strong salt solution .

       This test may be modified by hanging an inch wide strip of filter paper then (10) ins. long vertically over a dish of dye stuff solution with the lower end just dipping into the liquid. After perhaps ten minutes there will be distinct separation into zones . A mixture in which the colored zones are close together is in general likely to be better balanced as regards rate of exhaustion on dyeing than a mixture in which the zones are widely separated.Dye stuffs that contain such diluent as dextrin will climb hardly at all nor will very aggregated dye stuffs of the quick exhausting bad leveling type . Roughly speaking dye stuffs that climb to (80%)or more of the height of their solution water are good leveling acid colors a climb of (70%)indicates a neutral wool color and less than (40%)indicates a direct cotton color . There is however some overlap and some colors greatly aggregated in cold solution are well dispersed in a boiling dye bath. The capillary strip method may be used to examine the effect of salt and acid additions. Often in a mixture the addition of a suitable amount of salt will repress the climb of one component completely.

       The method may be extended into a chromatographic analysis but this is not suitable for routine examination and moreover there is little published work on dye stuffs . It is however now clear that complete and clean separations of the component dye stuffs in a mixture and also of impurities present may be accomplished in many cases be choice of an adsorbent of suitable particle size and chemical affinity coupled with a suitable elutriant.

      Other methods of examination for mixtures are 1 dyeing six hanks with zero one two four eight and (16%)of salt 2 preparing a boiling dye bath and dyeing six hanks successively for one minute each 3 dyeing one hank at fifty six to sixty deg. C. for a quarter of an hour and then exhausting the bath by dyeing with a second hank followed by dyeing at seventy deg. C.with a cotton hank . In all these cases changes in hue indicate mixtures.

RECOVERED WOOL

SHODDY:

               Is wool recovered from long staple yarns such as stockings and knitwear. Mango is wool recovered from short staple yarns woolen and milled goods. Extract or alpaca is recovered from rags by carbonizing.
               Examination o recovered wool fibers should be stripped with hydrochloric acid to remove dyestuff used in redyeing before examination of initially dark fibers . Usually there is a mixture of fibers of various colors
possibly some non wool fibers will be present . The ends of the fibers are usually torn or rigged and brush like due to mechanical and chemical treatment .Mechanical damage is well demonstrated by staining with kit-on Red G. Scales may be broken or absent . The diameter may be irregular and fibers will bend sharply instead of curving gradually . The absence of scales alone on a few fibers does not indicate a proportion of shoddy in an otherwise apparently sound sample of wool as tip wools have no scales.


                                                        UNCOMMON FIBERS

CAT:
       Staple .
                  One to two cms ends regular pointed diameter fourteen to thirty four microns  medulla is a single series of regular cells zero miner five zero miner six micron diameter.
       Horse.
                  Generally long hairs from the mane and tail white or black very long staple showing a strong characteristic medulla frequently in commerce artificially curled by steam diameter nineteen to two hundred and fifty microns. Also short hairs one to two cms long and eighteen to hundred microns diameter are sold as horsehair . Colored horsehair is pigmented throughout its cross section dyed adulterants in cross section usually show a dark exterior and a pale interior( dyed cow-tail) .
       Musk ox.
                    Fibers two and four point and one half ins.long diameter thirteen to twenty five microns in general similar to camel hair medulla mostly absent
      Musk rat.
                    Similar to rabbit but medulla cells mostly empty .
                 

EVALUATION AND ANALYSIS OF DYE STUFFS

FROM
            The present standpoint dye stuffs fall into the following groups.

Basic Dye stuffs
                
            These are organic bases of certain types containing free amino groups . They form salts with acids such as hydrochloric or oxalic acids , and double salts with certain metals such as zinc. For dyeing they are supplied in one or other of the above forms either pure or diluted with an inert body such as Dexedrine . For the coloring of
oils they are supplied as the free base . They dye silk ,wool,jute,and nylon from neutral ,slightly acid or soap containing baths .
            They do not dye cotton itself but as they form insoluble compounds with tannins and tannins are absorbed strongly by cotton with tannin .To obtain improved results the tannin may before dyeing be converted on the fibre into the insoluble antimony salt. They also form precipitates with many acid and direct cotton dyes and can therefore not be used in the same bath with such colors.  As a class they give very bright shades but that is almost their only virtue and they are rapidly dropping out of use.

True Mordant Dye stuffs
        
              These dye stuffs do not dye wool at all well alone but combine with chromium aluminium and iron to form lakes .The will therefore dye wool which has previously been treated with a salt of one of these metals.
They are often exceptionally fast but usually dull in shade . As their affinity is for the metallic mordant and not for the fibre they will dye any fibre wool cotton silk viscose which can be induced to become mordanted with a suitable metallic salt.     

BIOLOGICAL METHODS

BIOLOGICAL METHODS



          This article is confined to the recognitionof the effects of biological activity during the processing storage or use of textile .The technique of microbiological work and the identification of bacteria fungi and insects is highly specialized and unsuitable for routine work in a textile laboratory.

INSECTS
      
          The major enemy to textile materials in this country is the moth grub in other countries certain beetle grubs cause much damage both to textile fibres and to starchy materials mites which are not ture insects cause damage to flour and may give rise to so called dermatitis in operatives.

 MOTHS

      

          Moths themselves gave atrophied mouth parts and cannot eat it is the grub that causes damage to textile materials. Tineola Bestselling the clothes moth produces a grub which forms a silky tunnel as it moves

about and spins a silky cocoon whin fully developed . Tina pellionella the fur moth produces a grab which builds round itself a case of silk covered with small bits of fibre which is dragged along by the grub as
it moves about .Tricopbage tapietella (the tapestry moth )produces a grub which makes neither tunnel nor case but burrows in th material lining the burrows with silk .The grubs live on keratin like bodies and only cat vegetable matter when there is nothing else to eat but cannot digest it .  The majority of moths seen flying even inside the house especially in the country are not clothes moths and their grubs do no harm to textiles.
      

         Certin chemicals such as naphthalene and paradichlorbenzene are distasteful to moths and are avoided by them in sufficient concentration (but a concentration which cannot be realized in textile ware houses) these

 bodies are faral to moths . in most instances such chemicals are not fatal tithe grubs . Infected material may be sterilized by steam or fumigation by mixtures of ethylene oxide and carbon monoxide in suitable cases.

The Toussaint Colorimeter

                                       TOUSSAINT COLORIMETER 

           This instrument works on quite a different system. in this case the pattern which is to be examined is illuminated by a strong strong standard white light. The light which is reflected from the pattern is collected by a lens and is passed through a color filter.Suppose this filter to be green and the pattern to be scarlet in color but the small amount of light which does pass through is directed on to the sensitive surface of a photo electric cell.
              The photo electric cell consists of a glass bulb which is filled with the inert GSA argon at low pressure . On one half of its inner surface there is a thin layer of potassium. Inside the bulb set at a small distance from the potassium there is a square of tungsten wire . The tungsten wire is connected to the negative . There is this an electric circuit consisting of the interval between the tungsten and the potassium.

              When a beam of light falls on the potassium this layer emits electrons which journey across the break in the circuit from the potassium layer to the tungsten wire thus causing the amount of current passing through the circuit to increase very considerably . The number of electrons emitted by the potassium is in exact proportion to the amount of light falling on it . If therefore Anny electrical measuring instrument such as a galvanometer is placed the circuit threading of the galvanometer shows the amount of light falling on the cell . The instrument therefore constitutes a very delicate and exact electric eye .The amounts of light passing through the red filter can be measured in terms of an electric current going through the circuit.  

LUMINESCENCE

           Luminescence is the general name gicen to the emission of light from a substance, adn ehich is producesd by some reaction other than burning. Chemical luminescence is consequent upon certain chemical reactions; an example is the glowing osf phosphorus in solution in olive oil. Thermoluminescence is excited by heating or cooling ; green fluorspar fragments thrown upon a hot surface shine brightly, whilst quinine gives off light on cooling from a high temperature.
          Frictional luminescence is shown by cane sugar adn by a few specimens of diamond   Crystallisation luminescence is shown by a 20% solution of arsenious oxide in boiling conc, HCI, which emits a flash as every crystal is formed . 
          From a textile point of view , fluorescence and phosphorescence are of most importance. Phosphorescent substances after having been exposed to light glow, and continue to glow, for some time after the light sourxe has been cut off; examples are luminous paint ( calcium sulphide ) and , at very low temperatures, ordinary paper . Fluorescence describes the emission of light of one wave-length when exposed to light of a different ( and usually shorter ) wave- length ; the fluorescence ceases immediately the light source is cut off , thus distingushing it from phosphorescence; an example is the yellowish green fluorescence of Rhodamine concurrently with the absorption of green light of a certain wave-lingth.